13 Hvar Time

One morning, Petey and I laced our track shoes and climbed the pedestrian trail to the mountain top fortress that overlooks the Hvar harbor. We were early, the first visitors to arrive but soon a small group of hikers joined us. The castle doors were scheduled to open at 8:00 but it was 15 minutes past. One local, a regular to the fortress, commented that he usually arrives before by 7:30 and gets in free. “I’m surprised it’s not open, but then again, it’s Hvar time.” Not long after, a girl arrived on a scooter with keys to kingdom so to speak. She swung wide the heavy doors and welcomed us in … “20 KN please.”

The castle gave us a bird’s eye view of the harbor and the town of Hvar. We watched from the castle tower as a mid-sized cruise ship docked to release a temporary hoard of cruisers then it pulled away and parked behind the island of Galeŝnik freeing the birth for other traffic. We toured the maritime museum that told the story of high frequency shipwrecks and the landmark antiquity recoveries ... more amphora pots. We also climbed down into the dark dreary dungeon. It was claustrophobic. The stocks were so restrictive a prisoner could only move his head to eat ... that is if the guards actually fed him. Back on top we used my mini-tripod and the self-timer setting to get a family portrait.

On the way down the mountain we were passed by a shirtless Speedo-clad runner heading up to the castle. A while later, he passed us again this time downward on the steep steps taking two at a time. Then a few minutes later he passed us again climbing back up the steps. The guy was buff … I straightened my spine, sucked in my gut and walked taller.

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