15 Surreal

That evening, Petey and I explored the downtown area of Cavtat, a small sleepy coastal south of Dubrovnik, about the size of Cayucos. A ½ mile narrow peninsula sticks out from the shore and the densely built town follows the layout of this mounded peninsula. A well constructed asphalt pathway loops the peninsula and makes a perfect mile-long peanut walk … another enchanting evening. We strolled the path. It shaded the hot Mediterranean sun with a canopy of large cypress trees. On the water side of our peanut-walk we passed the water polo arena (more on that later) then the harbor filled with large yachts then a public swimming hole framed by buoys then we walked hand in hand along the stretch around the peninsula with views of Supetar Island, the sea beyond, and the sunset. At the furthest point of the finger-shaped peninsula is beach bar nicely placed to service a well situated sunbathing spot naturally carved out of the blond limestone rock. It was the perfect swimming hole complete with white adjustable lounges, a kiddy area, and a diving rock. Then back on the other side we passed a mysterious private home, two more “beach” areas, a fishing area, another bar then north side yacht-filled harbor. The loop was completed with a 500 yard narrow street, the only street in the downtown area. Along the way we spotted a father hovering over his toddler who was learning to walk. What better place to learn such a nimble skill then on this flat peninsula pathway of unfathomable beauty. The little girl was wearing pink knee pads ... too cute. She would teeter back and forth on stiff legs then fall on her pads and laugh. I asked dad for a photo shoot; he was amenable but my charm was lost on the little one ... she cried.

We studied a few restaurant menus then settled on Poseidon’s, a charming bistro overlooking the water polo arena. We waited a few minutes for an outdoor table on the promenade under the shade of cypress and pine trees. We both were in the mood for something different. Petey ordered a ham and cheese sandwich with fries while I took a risk and put my finger on the Mexican burrito. Mexican food is rare in Croatia. Donna warned me to eat my fill before the trip. My dish included corn, sour cream and guacamole … several items we had yet to see on a menu. While enjoying our meal, here’s what we took in: The outside air was Goldilocks, not too hot, not too chilly. Just 20 feet beyond our table was the sea and the goal area of a water polo “arena.” Like Korčula, three wooden landings framed the “pool” with bleachers lining the shore side and two sets of stadium lights flooding the play. The coaches and their bench players stood on the seaside landing while the refs walked up and down both sides vigorously blowing their whistle. A large electronic scoreboard was prompted up near the bleachers. The crowd was lively and pop music filled the area during a timeout and halftime. As our food arrived, a high school game was just underway. So there we were, outdoor seaside café, under a covering of graceful cypress trees, entertained by a high school water polo match enjoying great food … wait, there’s more. Beyond the arena we watched a tall ship dock, then a huge yacht. Just beyond that gawking enterprise was the sunset. As it settled down for the day it lit up the clouds in brush strokes of bright orange. Then as darkness fell with the game heating up, we could see the lights of Dubronik in the distance with the crescent moon keeping watch above. It was surreal.

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