19 Montenegro

Our final daytrip was the country of Montenegro, the southern neighbor of Croatia, just 30 miles to the south of Cavtat. As usual, Michael was on time and full of stories. We crossed the border and picked up our guide, Marjana. We drove through the fjords of Montenegro around the Kotor Bay. From a nice lookout point we gazed at the majestic island of St.George (natural land form) and Our Lady of the Rock (manmade land form). St. George houses a Catholic monastery. Legend says the other island was formed when two fisherman encountered a strange glimmering from the island reef. It was a statue of Our Lady. They brought it to shore but it returned on its own. Obeying God’s providence local seamen returning home from a long voyage dropped rocks on the spot in gratitude for their safe passage. After a time, the villagers filled boats with rocks and sank them on it. Ship after ship, century after century and now an entire island sits in the middle of the bay. On it stands a Catholic church and museum.

Further through the fjords we came upon the historic walled Venetian city of Kotor, a powerful port to the rich and famous of the 16th century. The three mile wall circles the city climbing the 700 foot cliffs that guard its back. Marjana got us guest passes and ushered us through the Main Town Gate. She warned us not to purchase the “handmade” dresses sold to tourist … handmade in China. Marjana gave us a brief orientation of the city then left us to roam. Euros … Back to Eruos … uh oh … got no Eruos. There were two banks within reach, one crowded and one not. I checked the rates at the crowded bank then told Petey to hold my spot while I checked the other. The second bank had the better rate but as I reached for my wallet, a teller mentioned the 4% commission. Wow, that was tourist-friendly. I rejoined Petey at the 0% commission bank and scored some funny colored money. We rushed through the town stopping at Cathedral of St. Tryphon the patron saint of gardeners with two similar but not the same towers built a century apart, the Maritime Museum of Montenegro where Petey pulled anchor, St. Luke’s Orthodox Church (closed), and St. Nicholas’ Orthodox Church where worshippers stand during the service. The tall thin candles symbolize the prayers of the saints. The bright colorful iconostasis, screen panels of icons, framed the back of the altar separating the material world from the spiritual world. I purchased a postcard intending to send to mom … I mailed it in Visalia.

Back in the air-conditioned hot van we drove to the Budva Riviera, a 15-mile coastline beach. The scenic road was the location of the opening chase scene in Casino Royale. We also passed the upscale hotel that Brad and Angelina praised. We parked at a lookout point to gaze at the highly exclusive resort peninsula of Sveti Stefan (St. Stephen). It’s like a mirage hovering just offshore. Dave commented that this island was among his parents’ favorite places. Nearby is a private beach set aside for the Queen of Montenegro … it’s called Queen Beach, go figure.

For lunch Marjana escorted us to a nice seaside restaurant and helped us order. Again, we were adventurous. I selected the goulash and Petey picked their famous cheese stuffed pork. The fresh baked bread dipped in a special dressing was to die for … that could have been my meal. As a final compliment, the restaurant served us a spiked fruit smoothie on the house. It was an after meal delight that cleansed our pallet, sweet, cold, slushy.

Following lunch, Petey, Dave and I wandered “umbrella beach.” I call it that because the bathing beach was wall-to-wall with red umbrellas. It was quite a site … and I don’t mean the skimpy swimsuit attire, I mean the high density of Coppertone bodies under Frikom-branded Red umbrellas. Petey and I removed our ... sandals and waded in the shallow, warm water trying. Next to the tanning mass we were a bit conspicuous ... like fish out of water.